How Clothes Should Fit: 5 Checks Before You Buy

Clothes fit well when the shoulder seams sit at the edge of your shoulders, the sleeves end at the wrist, the waist and seat do not pull or gape, the length falls at a clear point, and you can move without the fabric tugging. Sizes vary between brands, so use these five checks instead of the label.

1. How should the shoulders fit?

On shirts, jackets and kurtas, the shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder bone. If it hangs down your arm, the piece is too big. If it creeps up toward your neck, it is too small. Shoulders are the hardest part to alter, so check them first.

2. How long should sleeves be?

Long sleeves should end around the wrist bone. Short sleeves should sit comfortably without cutting into the arm or flapping. Sleeve length is usually an easy fix at a tailor.

3. How should the waist and rise fit?

Sit down in trousers and jeans. If they dig in, gape at the back or ride down, they will annoy you all day. A waist can be taken in easily. Thighs and seat cannot be altered as simply, so judge those first.

4. What length is right?

Trousers look best when the hem touches the top of the shoe or sits just above it. Kurtas and dresses look best when the hem ends at a clear point on the leg, not a few awkward centimetres past the knee. Hems are the easiest thing to change.

5. How much ease should there be?

Ease is the room between fabric and body. Raise your arms, bend and walk. The fabric should move with you without pulling across the chest or hips, and without so much spare cloth that the shape is lost.

What can a tailor fix?

• Hems and sleeve lengths.
• Taking in a waist or the sides of a kurta.
• Replacing buttons and zips.

A small alteration on a good piece usually costs far less than replacing it, and is often what separates clothes that look bought from clothes that look chosen. When you are building a capsule wardrobe on a budget, put alterations in the plan.

How do I measure myself for a better fit?

Use a soft tape in front of a mirror and measure over thin clothing. Write the numbers down and compare them with the size chart on the product page, not with the size on the label.

• Bust or chest: around the fullest part, keeping the tape level.
• Waist: around the narrowest part of your torso, usually above the navel.
• Hips: around the fullest part of your hips and seat.
• Shoulder width: from the edge of one shoulder to the other across the back.
• Inseam: from the top of your inner thigh to where you want the hem to end.

How should a kurta fit compared with a shirt or jeans?

A kurta should skim the body, with enough ease at the bust and hip to sit and bend, and shoulders that pass the shoulder check above. A shirt should lie flat at the collar and not pull at the buttons across the chest. Jeans should fit at the waist and seat first, since the length is easy to fix.

What are the most common fit problems?

• Buttons gaping at the chest: size up and take in the waist, or choose a stretch fabric.
• A shirt bunching at the back: it is likely too wide in the shoulders.
• Trousers gathering at the hem: shorten them or choose a different cut.
• A kurta pulling at the hip: look for more ease or a side slit.
• Sleeves too tight at the upper arm: try a different style or a looser fabric.

Is it better to buy ready-to-wear or get clothes stitched?

Ready-to-wear is quicker and often cheaper, and works well for basics. Stitched clothes give a better fit for kurtas, blouses and festive wear, because the tailor works from your own measurements. If your shape falls between sizes, plan a small alteration into the price.

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